Rudolf Steiner

Biodynamic agriculture was developed in the early 1920s  by Rudolf Steiner. Seen by many as the first modern ecological farming system it is an holistic approach that tries to bring the soil, plants and animals to its original natural balance and harmony. Unlike the more general term natural wine (see earlier post), Biodynamic winemaking is to many the strictest method of viticulture and vinification. Very precise guidelines have to be followed in order to convert the soil back to its original composition. Certification is very difficult to obtain and at least 4 years of proven Biodynamic farming are required.

More and more top quality producers embrace Biodynamic farming, with the like of Leflaive, Zind-Humbrecht and Nicolas Joly leading the way. One of the most charismatic and knowledgeable follower of Biodynamics is Alto Adige’s Alois Lageder. A fierce and long time practiser of Biodynamic farming Alois has just released his first Demeter (the strictest Biodynamic certification) certified wine. Watch the video where Alois explains why Biodynamic farming is essential in order to restore the soil to its original composition and how it differs from organic farming.

Seen by many as the purest and ultimate winemaking approach, biodynamic wines have seen a huge growth of popularity in recent years. Sommeliers are increasingly populating their wine lists with biodynamic wines too. As the term is still unfamiliar to the average wine drinker sommelier’s see themselves as being at the vanguard of the drive to raise awareness of biodynamics. Watch Angus Macnab’s (Lanesborough Hotel) talking about biodynamic wines below:

Here’s Roberto delle Pietra (Roussillon restaurant) take on the Biodynamic farming concept and the danger of misusing the term:

It’s exciting to see so many  sommeliers engaging with biodynamics. They fully understand the philosophy behind the wines and by sharing their knowledge they seek to educate and enlighten their customers and convert them into the joys of biodynamic wines.

Deep in our hearts we all admit it. As much as we think all grapes are born equal, there is no doubt in any sane person’s mind that Pinot Noir is the one. With elegance, charm and distinctive flavours and aromas, we all agree that this is the no. 1 grape.

Last night Bibendum hosted a mini Pinot Noir summit at The Mercer. Leading the gang was international winemaker Pascal Marchand. After years of work in some of the leading estates in Burgundy Pascal set off on a mission to spread the love of Pinot Noir around the world.

A charismatic ambassador for the grape, Pascal and his team took us through four different estates and all part of VC Family Estates in South America: Veranda (Bio Bio), Augustinos (Bio Bio), Kooch (Rio Negro) & Calafta (Patagonia).

But what takes one of the leading lights of Burgundy to try his luck making Pinot Noir on both sides of the Andes? Let’s hear from the man himself:

Next up is VC’s winemaker in the deep south, Pablo Herera, who guides us through the main characteristic of Patagonian Pinot Noir. We found it to be elegant, pure and simply charming:

Louis Vallet, 5th generation of a winemaking dynasty in Burgundy and the man in charge of VC’s Pinot project,  sheds some light on why Bio Bio is such a special place to grow grapes:

And finally Bouchon Breton sommelier Donald Edwards picks his favourite wine from our Pinot Noir Marathon:

The wines:
Augustinos Reserva Privada, Bio Bio, 2009
Augustinos Gran Reserva, Bio Bio, 2008
Calafate, Patagonia, 2008
Veranda Oda, Bio Bio, 2008
Veranda Millerandage, Bio Bio, 2007
Kooch, Rio Negro, 2008

Big thanks to the whole VC crew – especially Pascal – for such a wonderful evening and to The Mercer for the brilliant food last night.

Close your eyes and think of Mexico. Sun, Tequila, corn and chillies might be some of the first things that come to mind. And the wine? Well according to winemaker Hugo D’Acosta, wine is the next best thing coming from Mexico.

On a frozen evening in London Hugo and Bibendum hosted a Mexican food and wine dinner at Wahaca, a place I must confess I have a serious crush on. The Wahaca people are
constantly pushing the barriers. They are on a mission to show us all what fresh, honest market Mexican food is all about. Served in a funky and casual atmosphere Chef Thomasina Miers’ food was the perfect match to Hugo’s big boys from Baja California.

Baja California is the Silicon Valley of Mexican wines and the region where 90% of the country’s wines are made. With no more than 6,000 hectares it is home to a wide variety of grapes: from the usual French suspects Cabernet & Merlot, the Mediterranean Grenache & Carignan, to the Italian Barbera, Sangiovese & even Nebbiolo. This diversity in such a small wine region is what makes Mexican wine so special. Mexican wine, like the never ending local corn varieties, benefits from a diversity of smells and flavours.

We sampled Guacamole and Tortilla Chips served with Emblema 2008, a simple fresh and fruity Sauvignon Blanc. A zesty scallops ceviche, was beautifully balanced by Piedra de Sol 2008, a perfect varietal expression of Chardonnay – citrussy clean and elegant.

The reds showed more complexity; Estapor Venir 2007, a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Syrah, Zinfandel and Barbera represents best the diversity of Mexican terroirs. The wine is beautifully balanced, with good fruit concentration and a hint of liquorice. A trio of Tacos (Mole, Steak & Cheese) were the perfect companion. Last came the big and bold Maat 2007. 100% Grenache it was served with sweet and delicious Churros.

Both Thomasina and Hugo mentioned that Mexico is undergoing a deep culinary change. While the older generation never seemed to care for wine the younger one has discovered it and can’t let go.

Hugo thinks Mexican wines represents the real new world wine:

Thomasina on the booming wine culture in Mexico and why is its food is so exciting right now:

After such a great night it’s difficult to disagree.

A few weeks ago a lucky few gathered in the historic, old  Sandeman Port cellar at The Don Restaurant in the City to taste some pretty amazing vintages of Chateau Palmer, including the rarer than hen’s teeth 1966. Kudos to Restaurant Manager Otto, Sommelier Sebastian and Chef Matt for putting on a brilliant show.

Here’s our Fine Wine Buyer Camilla on what went down:

A 3rd Growth according to the list in 1855 but now a worthy rival to the First Growths, Palmer is one of the very top wine producers in the world. It is one of those names that leaves wine lovers misty eyed and prone to reminiscing about “that time I tried the 1990” or how the 1961 is their desert island wine. Located a stone’s throw from Chateau Margaux in the commune of Margaux, Palmer is one of the wines we look forward to tasting most whenever we are in Bordeaux. With the 2005 vintage currently selling for around £2000 a case, the property has come a long way since the late 1940s when British Rail used to bottle the wine in half-bottles as one of its house clarets.

To say we were excited that the Chateau’s top man Thomas Duroux was coming to London was something of an understatement. Thomas (who had flown in from Munich where he has watched Bordeaux beat Bayern 2-0 in the Champions’ League) is one of the most erudite, interesting and knowledgeable men in wine and had helped us put together a stunning line-up of wines that didn’t disappoint.

Here are some brief notes on the wines:

Alter Ego de Palmer 2004
Just beginning to fatten out and open up, this started a bit lean but the cassis fruit came through with a some swirling in the glass. Fantastic balance and good length too.

Alter Ego de Palmer 2000
A good bit better than the above – forward and friendly with beautifully ripe tannins and enough sweet fruit to match the cheese course.

Palmer 2000
Very young but already showing its potential. Lots of concentration and power in classic ‘iron fist in velvet glove’ style. I’d love a case or two of this in the cellar at home.

Palmer 1996
A long term investment with time on its side. Powerful and muscular with lots of fragrant fruit, firm tannins and very fresh acidity. It tasted much better after a sit in the decanter. Keep this for another five years.

Palmer 1989
Now we are getting to the good stuff. Rich, ripe and very much open for business. Pure enjoyment with hints of tea and spice matching the deep blackberry fruit. A proper claret on fine form as it approaches its 21st birthday.

Palmer 1983
A few reports had suggested that this had faded recently and might be past its best but, on this evidence, that clearly isn’t the case. We had three bottles in perfect nick and they were utterly delicious – vivacious, bright and rich with a bite of ripe tannins and lovely savoury fruit. No rush to drink up either.

Palmer 1966
The first bottle of this was shot. Cue worried glances around the room. Luckily the next two were in excellent condition and they were an absolute treat. One of the great Palmer vintages (some are said to prefer it to the legendary 1961) blessed with excellent balance, purity of fruit and a sumptuous texture. It even opened up and blossomed in the glass suggesting there is life in this old dog yet.

The one vintage we didn’t get to try but which was on everyone’s lips was the 2009. Thomas was barely able to contain his excitement about it. The weather and grapes were perfect, he said, and now it was all about managing the extraction and alcohols. Get those right and we could be a looking at a vintage to rival the very best of the last 60 years. Just don’t expect to buy it in a half-bottle from British Rail anytime soon.

The line up

A cast of twenty wine and food lovers converged on Quo Vadis in late November to taste ten 2000 Red Bordeaux and sit down to a feast of great food and wine.

THE TASTING

The following wines were up for tasting: Calon Segur, Cos d’Estournel, Figeac, Gruaud Larose, Leoville Barton, Mouton Rothschild, Peby Faugeres, Petit Village, Talbot and Trotanoy. First the facts. What a wonderful and consistent vintage this is. The overall favourite wines were the stupendously concentrated,yet beautifully balanced, Cos and the sumptuous, plump, all singing all dancing Trotanoy.

One inescapable observation is that the wines all changed and evolved before our eyes. Definitely a vintage that will evolve over many years. Although many tasters remarked how the Talbot was already delicious.

Le Mouton

THE DINNER

There’s NOTHING better than plain food cooked well. So we ate wild mushrooms on sourdough toast, rare veal chop with fat chips and cauliflower puree and English cheese. Yum! We drank a lot of very good wine. The two stand outs were both red Burgundies – Grands Echezeaux DRC 1999. Poised,yet concentrated,this kept on going for hours,lovely spicey, fraises de bois with overtones of vanilla and truffle. The other superstar? Griottes Chambertin 1989 Domaine des Chezeaux. This is made by Laurent Ponsot and ably demonstrated why so many people prefer great red Burgundy to anything else. Unlike the DRC this was a point, lots of gamey, wild mushroom notes but with an overlay of wild herbs and strawberries. Heaven in a glass.

kept on going for hours

Lots of other interesting goodies include Angelo Gaja’s Ca Marcanda Promis 2002, Beaucastel 1989, Mazis Chambertin Maume 1989, Meursault Perrieres Comte Lafon 1999 and Chateau Montelena Cabernet 1999.

A wonderful evening of fine food and wine with convivial company to enjoy it all.

The Mercer

The Mercer is a top city restaurant with a phenomenal wine list. It now has a really swish private room with all mod cons. This was where a great evening of food and wine took place recently in the new Private Room.

D’Arenberg is a winery with a point of view. All the wines are full of character. Witness a starter of wood pigeon salad with pancetta and piperade. D’Arenberg’s savoury dry poised 28 Road Mourvedre 2006 was more than a match for this panoply of flavour. There followed a beautifully timed tranche of salmon with some gutsy risotto. Guess what I drank a Chardonnay that was moreish. Lucky Lizard Chardonnay is produced with cool climate Adelaide Hills Fruit and it shows. Lots of grip and phenomenal value.

Roast pigeon breast salad, pancetta with sweet piperade & pine nut dressing

The headline dish was some very tasty oxtail and two impressive d’Arenberg Icons. Ironstone Pressings GSM blend 2000. This is fully evolved and had a real gaminess and then the wine of the night, Dead Arm Shiraz 2005. Contrary to public perception this is an elegant almost restrained velvet glove of a wine. Its poise and power made a great match with the richness of the oxtail.

Slow braised oxtail, roast cipollini & caulifloer potato cheese

Pudding and cheese with two stickies rounded off a top night out. If you’re having a party or need a meeting room in the city for breakfast,lunch or dinner, I thoroughly recommend the Mercer.

The Mercer, 34 Threadneedle Street, London, EC2R 8AY,  020 7628 0001

It features Bodegas Catena Zapata, probably Argentina’s finest and most famous winery. It’s been a big year for Catena after Nicolas Catena was named ‘Decanter Man of the Year’, the first from South America. As befits a man with that title, the wines that he and his crack winemaking team produce are spectacular.

I went to the original Els Pyreneus wine dinner at this Primrose Hill stalwart and it was excellent. Unfortunatley it was a bit dark for my wimpy iphone cam, but you can just about make out a plate of delicious Garrotxa cheese, which went brilliantly with the Els Pyreneus Maury Grenat 2006.

The Catena dinner takes place on the 24th November and costs only £35 all in – a bargain considering that a glass of Catena Alta Malbec would probably cost you £15+ in a normal restaurant!

Here’s the menu:

Salt cod salad with coriander , roast pepper and olives
Catena Chardonnay 2007, Mendoza

Rare Grilled longhorn ribsteak with borlotti beans and chimichurri sauce
Catena Alta Malbec 2006, Mendoza

Manchego and picos blue with apple jelly
Catena Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Mendoza

Dulche de leche ice cream – passion fruit biscuits
Alamos Torrontes 2008, Mendoza

You can book tickets via the Lansdowne website or by calling 020 7483 0409.

Oh wait…a bit of Art Attack Friday (No. 27 if you’re counting…) to finish with too.

Have a great weekend everyone.

Here in Britain we are obsessed with chefs. The romance, the fame, and the food…it looks so good…and they all wipe the sides of the plates so they’re clean and neat! Our reputation amongst other foodie superpowers has probably never been so strong, as the quality of our restaurants improves and the homegrown (though not always organically produced) chefs enjoy global superstardom with swanky outposts in all corners.

And at home, where TV proliferates such utterly mindless dross, cooking programmes have become the must-have evening and weekend ingredient. They’re not just for the unemployed anymore. Okay, there’s still a lot of reality TV nonsense but at least it contains scallops, black pudding and caulifower puree rather than islands, fake boobs and brain puree.

The BBC2 programme on superchefs last week opened my eyes to a few home truths about these mega-beings. The most scary was that behind every star chef, there is a steely-eyed (and occasionally menacing) PR queen. The link between Aiden Byrne cooking in his struggling new restaurant and his desperate desire for the TV appearance his talent undoubtedly deserved is fair enough. Bookings back at the restaurant went ballistic; job done. But if he wants to get close to Antony Worrall Thompson’s £60 million empire then he is going to have to think about whether he wants his noggin on pots, pans, ready meals and even toilet cleaner in the case of Thompson. It’s big business and there ain’t a paying restaurant customer in sight. AWT is still printing money, but he recently shut 4 of his 6 restaurants for financial reasons. Something’s wrong with this picture.

On Sunday I was invited to the filming of a new BBC series (title TBC) where 2 secret ‘celebrity chefs’ took over the kitchen and went head to head to woo the crowd. And yes I admit i was a bit excited to eat what these big names were going to pin their reputation on.

Only problem was they clearly weren’t too worried about their reputation. About halfway through, the penny dropped after Gareth cut to the quick and stated the bleeding obvious (which we’d all missed of course) – “It’s just a menu-writing competition.” And it was. Each chef offered 3 courses and we had to choose 1 of each, without knowing who cooked it…thereby producing a winner at some point. Gareth lived by his pronouncement and eschewed the ‘Taste of Italy’ wild mushroom risotto. “On principle I refuse to eat a risotto called ‘Taste of Italy’, especially when it says the mushrooms are from Kent.” Naturally, His Grumpiness, cleaned up on the starter, opting for a very tasty roasted Jerusalem artichoke soup while the rest of the table fell into the menu trap and got a smear of cold, poorly executed risotto.

Mains were both poor – long overcooked roast beef and a sort of wet, murky fish dish. Everything was just, well…a bit grey. The camera crew had stopped coming to our table at this point as we had nothing very good to say and they knew they’d need to edit some smiles in at some point. The two chefs (identity secret until May screening lest BBC marksmen take me down) came out after the mains to pitch their desserts which was all a little bit painful for them. And then the desserts came out, which were a little bit painful for us (”Organic pear? It’s more like organic turnip!” - ouch).

The problem was that neither of these chefs actually cook in restaurants any more, and had somehow forgotten the point of it all. If this was their restaurant, I can’t imagine they would allow this food out. Perhaps the TV company stitched them up and made sure things sat on the pass for ages? Yet we all ended up paying through the nose for their folly – all in the name of TV. But the joke wasn’t completely on us though, as we drank some sensational wine which we were able to bring ourselves. I got in trouble for taking notes at the table…but i’m glad i did as my memory wouldn’t have done them justice.

Bruno Paillard Rose in magnum was as utterly classy as ever – one of the best rose Champagnes out there. An ‘83 Chablis Montee de Tonnere still had plenty of life and a 1989 Meursault Clos de la Barre from Comtes Lafon was phenomenal. Golden in colour, with a nose of burnt tropical fruit and bread. Incredibly rich with amazing acidity and texture. Yum. Rockford Rifle Range Cabernet 01 was as good a Cab as you’ll find in the Barossa, Amiot Chassagne ‘94 a real change of pace and Valdepusa Emeritus excellent but far too young. The 3 real heavyweights were 1974 Chateau Montelena Cabernet, 1995 Catena Alta Malbec and 1999 Artadi El Pison. Sensational wines and thanks to Willie Lebus for raiding the cellar. All three lived up to their reputations – I will write them up in another piece, as i’ve gone on a bit today!

But in the meantime, don’t be fooled by the menu or the starry-eyed chef. And if you are…make sure you drink well at least!