Close your eyes and think of Mexico. Sun, Tequila, corn and chillies might be some of the first things that come to mind. And the wine? Well according to winemaker Hugo D’Acosta, wine is the next best thing coming from Mexico.

On a frozen evening in London Hugo and Bibendum hosted a Mexican food and wine dinner at Wahaca, a place I must confess I have a serious crush on. The Wahaca people are
constantly pushing the barriers. They are on a mission to show us all what fresh, honest market Mexican food is all about. Served in a funky and casual atmosphere Chef Thomasina Miers’ food was the perfect match to Hugo’s big boys from Baja California.

Baja California is the Silicon Valley of Mexican wines and the region where 90% of the country’s wines are made. With no more than 6,000 hectares it is home to a wide variety of grapes: from the usual French suspects Cabernet & Merlot, the Mediterranean Grenache & Carignan, to the Italian Barbera, Sangiovese & even Nebbiolo. This diversity in such a small wine region is what makes Mexican wine so special. Mexican wine, like the never ending local corn varieties, benefits from a diversity of smells and flavours.

We sampled Guacamole and Tortilla Chips served with Emblema 2008, a simple fresh and fruity Sauvignon Blanc. A zesty scallops ceviche, was beautifully balanced by Piedra de Sol 2008, a perfect varietal expression of Chardonnay – citrussy clean and elegant.

The reds showed more complexity; Estapor Venir 2007, a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Syrah, Zinfandel and Barbera represents best the diversity of Mexican terroirs. The wine is beautifully balanced, with good fruit concentration and a hint of liquorice. A trio of Tacos (Mole, Steak & Cheese) were the perfect companion. Last came the big and bold Maat 2007. 100% Grenache it was served with sweet and delicious Churros.

Both Thomasina and Hugo mentioned that Mexico is undergoing a deep culinary change. While the older generation never seemed to care for wine the younger one has discovered it and can’t let go.

Hugo thinks Mexican wines represents the real new world wine:

Thomasina on the booming wine culture in Mexico and why is its food is so exciting right now:

After such a great night it’s difficult to disagree.

It was Simon Farr (Co-founder of Bibendum and masters its wine strategy) who decided we were going to spend a weekend in Mexico. Tim (Wine buyer and a fresh MW) and I, knackered by jet lag and a week of meetings, tried to persuade him otherwise, but we failed miserably. Just as well, really, or we’d never have discovered the beautiful Baja California, on the west coast of Mexico. Our preconceptions about dust, cacti, big hats and bigger moustaches seemed cartoon-like when we arrived in the cool, coastal, lush Valle de Guadalupe.

Hugo D’Acosta’s winery is hidden away amongst his vineyards, almost impossible to see until you’re almost upon it. Then you quite literally ARE upon it, as Hugo drove us up, up, up the sloping roof seemingly towards the face of the mountains. Our ashen faces amused him as we clambered out of the car, and he explained that the sloping roof allows trucks to deliver grapes directly into the winery below. Once inside, Hugo’s winery is a feast for the senses. Adobe walls covered in cactus prints, natural light and recycled materials used everywhere we looked.

This being Mexico, a ten hour lunch was next, with endless courses , plus a steady stream of family and friends stopping by to greet us. The accompanying wines confirmed what we’d tasted at the winery – the wines of this area are complex and concentrated, bursting with ripe, dark fruit.

Luckily, Hugo makes a wine for us – Estapor Venir – and each of the four varietials in this wine contributes its own characteristics – Petite Sirah brings dark colour and spicy peppery notes, Cabernet Sauvignon gives the wine a solid structure and typical notes of dark berries, Zinfandel contributes body and red berry flavours, while Barbera adds more berry flavours and refreshing acidity. This is a complex wine which shows varietal characteristics and has well integrated barrel notes. The nose and palate have complex pepper, dark and red berry aromas and flavours, while the palate is full-bodied and smooth with integrated tannins and a long finish.

We fell asleep to the sound of the Pacific dreaming of Baja wines and spicy Mexican chocolate. The next morning we went out for a fish taco breakfast; far, far, far better than it sounds, trust me. Then we went to visit ‘la escuelita’ (the little school), which Hugo and his brother Alejandro have founded in order to teach locals the art of winemaking and thereby give them a means of supporting their families. Handprints on each barrel indicate the owner of the wine, and again the architecture is a lesson in beauty and sustainability. Humbling indeed.

Reluctantly, we headed back over the border from Baja and headed home to tell people about the desert, the cacti, the big hats…