By Ben Collins
Simon Farr and Michael Saunders
A big vintage in Bordeaux means the big guns get wheeled out, so I am here in Bordeaux with Bibendum big wigs Simon Farr and Michael Saunders rather than my usual Kiwi chauffeur. We are on a recce to round up new Chateaux for Bibendum’s mega Bordeaux tasting in April.
There is a big vintage buzz in the air round here and the 2009s we have tasted so far are living up to the hype – full of silky fruit and ripe round tannin.
The first gulp of a hyped up new vintage is always an interesting one – will it live up to expectation? The anticipation was heightened by the fact we were tasting Gruaud Larose and Gruaud can be difficult from barrel. In fact, it was easy: lovely silky texture and oodles of blackcurrant flavour. It was supple, natural and unextracted with fresh and rich ripe fruit. And just 13% alcohol which is great. A delicious start.

Pontet Canet
Next up was du Tertre. Again it was easy and upfront to taste. Silky smooth ripe tannins. Toasty roast espresso flavours too – a high toast barrel, perhaps? Long ripe flavours on the finish. If they are all this good then you lot are in for a treat at Lord’s.
Moving on to the right bank and lunch at Cheval Blanc with Pierre Lurton. It is always fun visiting CB. Brilliant wine helps of course and PL is so welcoming interesting and a mine of information.
Our first port of call was an inspection of the new chai they are building. At the moment it is an enormous hole in the ground criss-crossed with steel rods and a skyline dominated by 2 enormous cranes specially painted in Cheval Blanc creamy brown to blend in with the Chateau. It will be spectacular on completion in June 2011.
The next job was to choose the wine that the ultra generous PL is sending to the Bibendum tasting at Lords on 21st April. We settled on CB ‘04, Yquem ‘99 and the about to be released Y de Yquem ‘07. We also tried was a blockbuster ‘08.
With lunch we drank three brilliant vintages of CB: a delicious ’01, a terrific ’98 (one of PL’s favourites) and ’90 – a cult Cheval Blanc if ever there was one.
The inevitable question was asked of course: what of 09 CB? ‘Vraiement incroyable’ was the quick as a flash response from Pierre. “And Yquem?” asked Simon.
“A great vintage most akin to the 1899!” was the reply. What a throwaway line!
Things are looking very good for Bordeaux 2009 – get down to Lord’s on 21st April and taste them all. You can check the current line-up here.
Tags: Bordeaux, bordeaux 2009, France, News