A few weeks ago a lucky few gathered in the historic, old Sandeman Port cellar at The Don Restaurant in the City to taste some pretty amazing vintages of Chateau Palmer, including the rarer than hen’s teeth 1966. Kudos to Restaurant Manager Otto, Sommelier Sebastian and Chef Matt for putting on a brilliant show.
Here’s our Fine Wine Buyer Camilla on what went down:
A 3rd Growth according to the list in 1855 but now a worthy rival to the First Growths, Palmer is one of the very top wine producers in the world. It is one of those names that leaves wine lovers misty eyed and prone to reminiscing about “that time I tried the 1990” or how the 1961 is their desert island wine. Located a stone’s throw from Chateau Margaux in the commune of Margaux, Palmer is one of the wines we look forward to tasting most whenever we are in Bordeaux. With the 2005 vintage currently selling for around £2000 a case, the property has come a long way since the late 1940s when British Rail used to bottle the wine in half-bottles as one of its house clarets.
To say we were excited that the Chateau’s top man Thomas Duroux was coming to London was something of an understatement. Thomas (who had flown in from Munich where he has watched Bordeaux beat Bayern 2-0 in the Champions’ League) is one of the most erudite, interesting and knowledgeable men in wine and had helped us put together a stunning line-up of wines that didn’t disappoint.
Here are some brief notes on the wines:
Alter Ego de Palmer 2004
Just beginning to fatten out and open up, this started a bit lean but the cassis fruit came through with a some swirling in the glass. Fantastic balance and good length too.
Alter Ego de Palmer 2000
A good bit better than the above – forward and friendly with beautifully ripe tannins and enough sweet fruit to match the cheese course.
Palmer 2000
Very young but already showing its potential. Lots of concentration and power in classic ‘iron fist in velvet glove’ style. I’d love a case or two of this in the cellar at home.
Palmer 1996
A long term investment with time on its side. Powerful and muscular with lots of fragrant fruit, firm tannins and very fresh acidity. It tasted much better after a sit in the decanter. Keep this for another five years.
Palmer 1989
Now we are getting to the good stuff. Rich, ripe and very much open for business. Pure enjoyment with hints of tea and spice matching the deep blackberry fruit. A proper claret on fine form as it approaches its 21st birthday.
Palmer 1983
A few reports had suggested that this had faded recently and might be past its best but, on this evidence, that clearly isn’t the case. We had three bottles in perfect nick and they were utterly delicious – vivacious, bright and rich with a bite of ripe tannins and lovely savoury fruit. No rush to drink up either.
Palmer 1966
The first bottle of this was shot. Cue worried glances around the room. Luckily the next two were in excellent condition and they were an absolute treat. One of the great Palmer vintages (some are said to prefer it to the legendary 1961) blessed with excellent balance, purity of fruit and a sumptuous texture. It even opened up and blossomed in the glass suggesting there is life in this old dog yet.
The one vintage we didn’t get to try but which was on everyone’s lips was the 2009. Thomas was barely able to contain his excitement about it. The weather and grapes were perfect, he said, and now it was all about managing the extraction and alcohols. Get those right and we could be a looking at a vintage to rival the very best of the last 60 years. Just don’t expect to buy it in a half-bottle from British Rail anytime soon.
Tags: Bordeaux, bordeaux 2009, Chateau Palmer, Fine Wine, wine dinner