By Willie Lebus
Bruno Paillard and Joel Rubuchon
Bruno Paillard, one of the very best Champagne producers, and Joel Robuchon, the chef with more Michelin stars than any other, get on like a house on fire. Or more particularly, they get on like a fine wine paired with exquisite cuisine, and that’s exactly what they put together at a recent lunch in a freezing cold Reims in Champagne. I would be lying if I said I had not eaten Robuchon’s food in the past but somehow thos latest lunch managed to eclipse anything that has gone before…straight to the food.
Langoustine croustillante au basilic
A plump sweet langoustine wrapped in fragrant, fresh, intense basil and covered in the lightest, crisp tempura batter with a puree of basil alongside. The flavours were screamingly precise and brought all my taste buds to attention.
Caviar en Fine Gelee au parfum de corail servi en surprise
What appears to be a tin of caviar is in fact… a layer of caviar with a layer of fragrant lobster coral jelly and a sensational thick pile of sweet shredded with crabmeat. Divine.
La noix de Saint-Jacques poiles aux fregolas avec une emulsion epicee aux aromates
This was an ultra plump pan fried scallop sitting on tapioca-like pasta with a creamy sauce of sweet peppers, tomato and fragrant spices finished with cream.
Le Chou Vert aux legumes mitonnes a la vinaigrette
A delicate explosion of textures. Cabbage, artichoke heart and truffle. Very sensual and palate cleansing. The trick is in the mitonnage: ultra slow cooking at a low temperature. Cabbage never tasted this good.
La Caille caramelize avec une pomme pureea la truffe
So the quail first. Texture of foie gras. Honey, spice, succulent, tender. Dribblingly good. And what about the puree of potato? The potato is a bit part for the butter and cream with lots of truffle shaved over the top. I had second helpings. If you’re going to eat, then take it seriously I say.
Les fromages
Cheese to you and me. A nice slice of camembert, Pont l’Eveque and Morbier. Perfect!
La Panacotta a la vanilla de Tahiti, crème anglaise a la Pistache
I’m not a pudding guy. But this was right up there as one of the stars of the lunch. The pistachio custard was so concentrated, so fresh, so green. The panacotta had a wobblingly savoury, scented vanilla flavour that seared through the glass. Such great balance!
La Mangue legeretes aux fruits exotiques,biscuit joconde,sorbet mangue passion.
Again the presentation of this dessert was stunning. Who says you don’t eat with your eyes? Three expressions of exotic fruit with mango dominating. Great balance of aromatics and citrus. The joconde almond cake fingers were so light. Classic.
We were spoilt for choice with Bruno Paillard’s magnificent Champagnes. Here are three that I wish to highlight. The current Bruno Paillard Brut Premiere Cuvee disgorgement, from July 2009. You need to be a brave man to serve this with caviar and crabmeat. It went remarkably well. There is a purity and clarity that runs through all of Bruno Paillard’s wines, allied to its marvellous harmony that made for a wonderful combination.
If you are looking for a true celebratory Champagne then I suggest you choose Bruno Paillard’s Premiere Cuvee Rosé in Magnum. This must be the sexiest magnum in the world. The Rosé is robust enough to handle Pont l’Eveque and delicate enough to partner panacotta!
The Champagne that almost stole the lunch was Bruno Paillard Brut Millesime Blanc de Blancs 1996. Here is a Champagne that has spent a decade on the lees. The most impressive Champagne since I first tasted Bollinger 1990. Only this is better! A bouquet that wafted its way around the dining table. Nuts, honey and spice with hints of citron. This is a wolf in suckling pig’s clothing. Delicate with the power of a frustrated Ferrari. You have to taste this to believe it. A phenomenal lunch, with world class Champagne to match.
Tags: bruno paillard, Champagne, France, Restaurants, Wine dinners
Willie that lunch looks amazing. Have you tried to recreate any of the dishes at home?